Just like with a rifle, you're looking for bone-on-bone contact for solid support. It takes very little time to snap into a kneeling position or a modified "rice-paddy prone." The latter is very quick to get into and out of yet is very stable.

Remember, there are no rules on the street. Use whatever you can for support to help you accurately place your rounds.

To hit your target, you'll first need to know just how much front sight to hold up at certain distances. You find this out only by spending time on the range. Pick a load, then buy a lot of it. Start at 25 yards, and shoot some groups.

When you feel comfortable, move back to 50 yards. Don't be discouraged if your initial groups are bucket-size. Just concentrate on each shot. When you are comfortable with your groups at 50 yards, write down the difference between your point of aim and point of impact at this distance. Then move to 75 and 100 yards. Again record your point of aim at each distance (draw a picture if you have to) for future reference, then memorize it.

Why all the fuss? Well, making hits at long range in a gravel pit is one thing. You can see the dust strike and quickly correct. In the real world, you probably won't have that luxury. So know where to hold.

200 Yard Results
MODEL	TOTAL HITS	PERCENTAGE
Glock 23	7/20	35
Walther P99	6/20	30
Les Baer Prowler	14/20	70
NOTE: Groups fired prone, on standard IPSC silhouettes measuring 30 inches high by 18.25 inches wide

When you get past 100 yards, I suggest putting a larger backer behind your target for any rounds that might miss the silhouette. This will provide you with feedback to help determine the center of your group and where to hold. Also, while it's a good idea to place an aiming point on the silhouettes to start, graduate from needing one as soon as possible. So when you're able, remove the target and shoot at just a blank silhouette.

Don't stop practicing at 15 yards and less. But I suggest working some longer shots into your training as well. It may save your life.